Monday, December 13, 2010

Sonic in the night.

I'm pulling out of Hakata station, settling into my leather chair.  Today's meeting is done, and I am watching the raindrops run streaks down the windows of the sonic train.  The man beside me is sleeping soundly, his head propped against the glass as comfortably as though it were his pillow. Every month or so, I actually get paid to ride a beautiful, shiny sonic train all the way to Fukuoka city for a three hour long business meeting.  I don't have to turn up for work in the morning, so I can sleep in, and my office actually pays me for the whole day, plus my travel expenses, with a little extra for a cheap bowl of udon and a 100 yen crepe.  (100 yen is approximately $1).

Today it was rainy.  Besides the fact that I actually manage to forget my umbrella everywhere, because under normal circumstances I don't believe in carrying one, I don't mind the rain.  In fact, I have come to like the rain in Japan.  The morning begins with the sound of drip-drops, and I know, since I can't see the orange sun rising through my east-facing window, that it will be a rainy day.  I hit snooze one last time, burrow into my down comforter, fighting against the morning cold, and I stave off the day for 9 more minutes.  On days like today, this is increasingly easy, since I didn't have to make the train to Fukuoka city until 11am.

The rain in Japan leaves a very thick, grey fog around the green mountains that draws in me something like a dull ache.  It reminds me of being lost in a very deep forest, and playing hide and seek.  A kind of innocence and a bit of tragedy seeping in through my wet shoes in a memory I can't recall anymore.  In the rainy morning, on the way to Fukuoka city, I am looking out my window, watching the trees and small farms zip by weaving a patchwork quilt of greens and yellows, bodies of water I don't know, rivers, small towns, crouching beneath that rich blanket of rain fog.  I feel sometimes as if I could pick the whole thing up and shake it, that maybe, just maybe, all the flakes of snow or glitter would come tumbling down out of the sky.

Today is my dad's birthday, and I have all these small moments throughout my day where he pops into my mind.  The green, open countryside of Japan always reminds me of him.  I sometimes wonder if he would have that same feeling when he looks at it as I do.  But sometimes the thoughts aren't cohesive.  I guess, they never are when you love someone.  They are just thoughts.  When I was little, I thought my dad smelled like coffee out of a metal thermos.  His fingers were too thick to thread a bead on a string.  He loves surprising people.  He would fill a present with dried macaroni just so we could never guess what was inside when we shook it.  He used to bring me a Deaf Dog hot chocolate every Saturday after I finished basketball practice.  He always insists on Christmas packages being wrapped to perfection.  No matter where I am living in the world, he knows what time it is there, and usually what the weather is like.  And he has never forgotten to mail me a card on my birthday, and it always seems to magically arrive on the actual day.  And, when you move as much as I do... well... that means a lot.  There are a few things in this world- the sunrise, the sunset, the tide, (and now, the Japanese train times)- that I trust as much as my dad.  I'm letting these thoughts reel all along that sonic track, all within the slurp of my noodle soup, all throughout my meeting, and still...

In the evening, where I started this ramble, I am beside that man sleeping.  He sleeps silently and doesn't stir, and I reflect upon the fact that most people in Japan are quite content sleeping in otherwise uncomfortable places.  I attribute it to the long hours of monotonous work.  It's incredible to me that this even instills in me a kind of respect for Japanese people.  They truly do the work that they must, without complaining, without wishing for anything different.  And at the end of their ten or twelve hour days, they fall into a sweet sleep on the train, next to a perfect stranger, wedged up against a window.

I'm thinking of this and I'm watching the streaks of rain run down the glass.  The rain makes smudge marks of the lights outside.  I am watching these smudge marks and they remind me of long drives home from San Francisco in the family car just before Christmas.  At some point when I was a little girl we may have gone down to Ghiradelli Square for an ice cream sundae, maybe to Christmas shop, and maybe to see all the Christmas lights.  After a long evening that produced that same desire to sleep against the window, I would, on the hour drive home to Petaluma, squint my eyes against the lights outside to let them blur into a sparkly ball.  John Lennon's "Happy Xmas (War is Over)" plays in this memory of mine, soft and sweet like a whisper.  My brothers are sleeping next to me, and nothing is keeping me from squinting my eyes against all those lights, waiting to see Santa's sleigh.

I am smiling to myself, and this far-removed memory on the sonic.  And how two moments can exist so far apart in mind and in reality, and yet, they can in an instant, reveal in me the same moment.  How can this moment trigger that one?

As the train moves out of the station, I've a floating sensation.  Sonic trains are smooth riding and well-furnished.  The seats are leather, the floors are wooden, and the cabins are separated by frosted glass doors that automatically open when you approach them.  The doors are silent, and the train hardly makes a sound as it leaves the station.  Remarkably enough, my sonic train feels as if it is hovering above Fukuoka city as it leaves Hakata station.  Skyscrapers pass silently beside.  Streets below glisten in the rain.  Cars wait in traffic on those streets.  Crossing lights change.  And my sonic train just glides right above.

To the right, out of the blue evening sky comes a Shinkansen train.  (Just as a side note, a Shinkansen train is the fastest train in Japan.  The fastest Shinkansen can go over 300 miles per hour.  They are a work of art to watch in motion, moving by magnetic force along the track at insanely fast speeds, and like my sonic, they almost appear to be hovering silently through space.  Sonic trains, are maybe the second fastest grade of trains in Japan, going about 100 miles per hour.)  So, here we are, coming silently parallel with one of the brand new Shinkansen trains, the fastest train in Japan.  The Shinkansen is a pure grey capsule floating along the track.  The words "Osaka" are flashing in neon green above the exits.  The lights from inside the train emit a soft yellow glow, and I can see people reading the newspaper, looking at their phones, ordering coffee from the steward as she passes.  And here we are, these two silent trains, floating seamlessly beside each other over Fukuoka city, buildings passing beside and between us, lights glistening.  Walt Disney's monorail has nothing on this ride.  It feels like I have actually been transported to some strange robot world in my dreams of the future.

I think of that little girl, in the car home from San Francisco, being dazzled by the lights outside, smiling all to herself in the dark night of California.  How many of those moments added up to this one?   I watch the Shinkansen veer softly to the right, and follow it through the maze of skyscrapers until it is out of sight.  I lean back into my soft leather chair and close my eyes and let the sonic take me home.






 


Thursday, December 9, 2010

Thank god for bicycles, Tokyo.

The largest crosswalk I've ever seen, Tokyo.

People moving. People moving. People moving. Tokyo.

Overwhelming amount of signage, Tokyo.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Here we go...

My older brother said that it would take me three months to get this up and running... well... he was obviously more ambitious than I. 

 I have been in Japan now for five months.  Suffice to say that a lot has gone on in the last five months, and while I will do my best to remain true to the reason for this blog, I can't promise that it will be informative, interesting, or accurate.  I am also, not entirely sure how to blog, so I suppose this is going to be, more than anything a learning experience.

How about, to start things off, I go ahead and say one thing that surprised me most about Japan when I arrived?
I would say that Japan being a little bit technologically old-fashioned was probably the most surprising part about arriving here.  For some reason, I envisioned Japan: world of super-fast computers, widespread wireless internet, and cash transfers so smart I could just think about purchasing a new sweater and all the Japanese super-technology would find it, choose the right size, and buy it for me, without me ever having to leave my own head.

I'm sure you could imagine my surprise to find that the computer I use in my office is a very slow hp circa 1999; that wireless internet is available, but not widespread, and obtaining it in my own house took a considerable amount of time; and well, as for financial issues, I will just say that Japan is almost entirely a cash society.  This means that my first night in Tokyo was spent searching around for an ATM machine.  I found a few banks, with ATM machines inside, that were closed, asked about ten different convenient stores for directions to ATMs, finally found one inside a 7-11, only to find that it didn't even accept MasterCards.  Now that I have a Japanese bank, I still need to be wary as all ATM machines close at 9pm, no bills can be paid online, and next to nothing can be purchased with a card.  What does this mean?  Plan your day to get to the bank before 5pm (when it closes), or pay extra withdrawal fees at the ATM (even if it is your bank), and when you do get out money, make sure to get out enough... because if you run out... there is no other way.

Luckily, though, the people in Japan are so wonderful, that I have been bailed out of a few financial jams merely on goodwill.  Yes, perfect strangers have either given me money or paid my way for me, if the situation so called for it.  This includes being loaned money to buy lunch, being given a free ride on the train when I realized I had no money, being given a free ride on the bus after an unsuccessful trip to the only ATM machine for miles out in the countryside only to find it was broken, and being bought dinner by a complete stranger at least twice.

On the same vein, I will say that all banking still uses papers here in Japan too.  Internet banking is uncommon, and all ATM machines inside banks still utilize bank books that print all of your withdrawal and deposit information every time you use them.  Which I like.  This is one part of American banking that I miss and has been lost relatively recently.  It's sort of cute to have a little bank book that records all your financial comings and goings.  It's convenient, and all in one place, and unlike an internet website, it is tactile, and albeit, occasionally able to be lost in your purse.

Of course, I do not live in Tokyo... so I realize that there are some international banks in Japan that do offer internet banking, and a very intricate system of banking exists.  Actually, that brings me to my next point, that, there is actually nothing lost in this system.  While I can't pay my bills at 11:59pm the day they are due online, I will say that most companies in Japan don't charge late fees anyway.  So, if I forget to pay my bill today, I can go to 7-11 to pay the bill tomorrow without any trouble.  It actually makes a great deal of common sense.  Secondly, you just adjust.  In the same way that cultures where things close for siesta between noon and three, you simply adjust your life so that you make it to the bank by 5.  Or you go without.  The paperwork, the keeping of paperwork, and of bank books, and of stamps and seals, while seemingly outdated in the U.S., is actually very far from it.  If anything, there is again, real tactile evidence of things being paid on time, papers being signed, money being deposited, withdrawn, transferred etc.  The system works very well.  If I want to pay for a plane ticket directly from my bank account, I go to my ATM machine, enter a routing number for the account I want to deposit the money into (which the company I am paying will have given me), and I can transfer that money into the account in a few minutes.  And as I mentioned before, bills can be paid at 7-11, giving reason for the name "convenient store."  Most bills are actually automatically taken out of my account every month (another great part of the Japanese banking system- widespread automatic deposit), but for all bills that aren't automatically paid from my account, I can simply bring them to 7-11, and the clerk accepts my money, stamps my bill and acts as middle man for my bill paying.  Nice system.

So, I guess, back to my original point... what surprised me? 
I guess the way modernity looks in Japan surprised me.  It is actually far less futuristic than I imagined.  And, to be honest, it's much more real.  It seems that modernity has more to do with how old models are adapted into today's modern society in Japan.  It makes sense that old traditions are maintained so well in Japan, then.  This is something I'll express more later, but I just keep getting the feeling that the old slogan "out with the old, in with the new," doesn't apply here.  But rather, it is an accepted fact that old stuff needs to be maintained in order ensure its ability to continue to work now.  Old computers are still used because it seems that maintaining a good computer and continuing to use it, is better than creating more waste and unnecessarily buying a new one.  Likewise, using a fail-proof banking system, that has been used for a long time, adjusted to fit the times with neighborly manners and flexibility as far as bill-paying is concerned works just as well as a minute-by-minute internet banking system.  In fact, in some ways, it works better.  (No paying heaps of late fees or overdraft charges).  And as for wireless internet well... I love mine, and I love places that use it.  It used to be available everywhere in Japan (is what they tell me), but something happened ... I'll need to check up on it.